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Speakers Static Noise: How To Fix It

James Benchman
Last Updated on
by James Benchman

The worst thing that can happen during a great jamming moment in the car is ghastly static noise coming from the car’s speakers.

Not only is this not a pleasure to listen to, but it’s also an indication of deeper problems with the speakers, which might cause them to eventually blow out. Static isn’t just an annoyance, it’s a symptom of a larger problem.

There are a few ways to eliminate the static problem emanating from your speakers yourself. The multiple fixes available depends on what is making your speakers malfunction.

To get a better idea of how to fix the problem, it’s best to understand a bit more about how car speakers actually work. Next time you start to hear static, take the problem into your own hands.

How to Fix Static Noise from Car Speakers

1. Start with Your Speakers

While there could be several reasons that your car’s speakers are emitting static rather than great sounding music, the best place to start is with the speakers themselves.

Factory speakers are usually the most basic type of speakers, so they tend to malfunction more quickly, especially if the music in the car has been played increasingly more loudly. They also run the risk of having been installed improperly.

Your speakers are most likely located on the dashboard of the car and in the doors. They are generally connected via soldering to speaker wires or what is called a spade connector. If they are in fact soldered, reheating the joint with a pencil-type iron will fix the problem.

However, if you find that the connection to the wiring was already faulty, this will give you the chance to rectify the situation. The wiring could also be loosened or severed and not properly connected to the solder joint. Getting inside the problem will allow you to see the best way to fix it.

On the other hand, if your speakers are connected via spade connectors, one way to fix the problem is with a wiggle test. The other option would be to sever the old connectors, replace the wires, and reconnect. This should solve the problem.

2. Fix Speakers with No Connector

If your speakers are unconnected and still sound off, here are ways to fix them.

The simplest factor affecting them working properly is that the connection from the speakers to the music is poor or off. The first step to checking if this is the problem is by wiggling the wires. If that doesn’t seem to work, then you should disconnect the wires one at a time. Inspect the wires before reconnecting them.

You can also look at the condition of your wires to solve the problem. If the wires are frayed, stripped, in pieces, or generally look in poor condition, they can be fixed. You can do so by removing the ends and re-striping the wires.

You can also “tin” the wires, which means you solder the strands and make them one again. This way they are easier to reconnect.

The reason that this will fix the quality of sound is because the old wires could be corroded and not able to amplify or transmit the sound properly. Repairing the wires will fix the static sound if that is the cause.

3. Check Your Speaker’s Cones

Your speaker might not just be emitting a static sound, there could also be a prevalent buzzing that comes from other parts of your speaker’s mechanics. This buzzing sound could be hinting at an issue with the cones or the parts that surround it. A conal issue is a deeper issue than that of stripped wires.

The best way to find out what the problem is is by looking inside the speaker. Once you remove the front of the speaker, you should inspect how the inside looks.

There is a cone inside that is essential to the quality of sound, and if damaged or bent, needs to be fixed or replaced. Look to see if the cone has a tear or puncture, which is likely the culprit of a buzzing noise.

You can re-cone your speakers with the help of an audio technician, but it’s best to simply replace the speakers entirely.

4. What About the Ground Loop?

The sound coming from your speakers might not be a static, and it might not be a buzzing either. What kind of problem it could be is a ground loop problem.

This type of hum happens when the components in the speaker aren’t grounded correctly. Depending on your car and your speaker system, you might need to be using a shorter or heavier ground wire.

If that doesn’t seem to be the exact problem you are experiencing, there could be a bad connector to one of the patch cords of the speaker. What is recommended is to purchase and test a new patch cord in each of the outlets and turn the sound on to see which one isn’t working correctly.

It might seem tedious, but it’s the best way to find the root of the problem.

5. What if Nothing Works?

If you find that none of the above fixes works for your speakers, there might be more complex issues causing the noise. One is something a little out of your control, which is interference from other mechanisms, power lines, and appliances interrupting the supply of sound.

The way to fix this is by buying a power bar and installing it in your car to stabilize the interference and make sure the interruption won’t happen again.

Another symptom that is beyond your control is a wireless interruption in your speaker system. This can be caused by wireless devices and radio signals, which you will have a harder time trying to get rid of.

There are shielded cables you can purchase which are thicker and more heavy duty to protect. They cost more than regular wires and will be a harder to hide or place in the car, but ridding your speakers of unwanted noises could be more important.

About James Benchman
James Benchman
James is an Automotive Mechanic with over 20 years experience and 300+ car repairs. He is an expert with cars and has worked with different models from the biggest brands. James is a Mechanic , Husband , Father of 3 , and head of content at Caraudiologic. Learn more about us
  1. Hey, I have aftermarket speakers, head unit and amp, they are new and compatible. Car in acc, static; turn on, pop then similar static; turn off, static continues for several seconds. If you take rca cables out of head unit, static gets worse, if you take rca cables out of amp, no change. Checked ground and power at amp and head unit, all good. RCA cables good. Front left speaker blown(?) but I completely disconnected…. no change. Each speaker wire pair (x4 pairs) 4ohms runs to another mini amp that feeds the speaker an tweeter (x4 speakers x4 tweeters). The previous amp would over heat and then it “died in protective mode”. I didn’t install this madness… pretty bummed. Any advice before I light it all on fire? Lol

    1. Hey Joe, sorry to hear that, man. That sucks and I know super frustrating. If there is static and pops, it really sounds like there are bad connections, improper wiring, things not ground or shielded right, and of course things just not connected appropriately given the equipment you have. I’m sure you know it’s really tough to troubleshoot blind like this, but these are the usual culprits. Just take your time and go through everything with zero assumptions and with a critical eye. I’m sure something will turn up to give you an indication of what to do next. Good luck!

  2. I just put in 2 new Kenwood 6X9’s in the rear of my car and Im getting static/hiss from both of them (even when the pioneer double din is muted or volume is at zero but not when off). My car came with 2 stock pioneer 6×9’s and they didn’t have this problem. Poor quality but no hiss. The car also came with a stock pioneer sub in the trunk so there must be a stock amp somewhere, I think. Im not sure if the stock 6×9’s and their wires ran through the amp or not. I used the OEM hardware and speaker wire to connect and mount the new kenwood’s. I just clipped, stripped, and soldered the original wires to the new speakers. They still sound pretty good except that annoying static hiss. I’m about to put in a 12″ Rockford Fosgate R2 and a 400W amp but would like to fix this problem before finishing the rest of my aftermarket upgrades. Please Help.
    all the info I can think to give you-
    I have… 2005 Chevy Cobalt LS with stock Pioneer equipment (all gone except the wires, sub, and possible amp). New Pioneer double din head unit. 2 new 6.5″ Kenwoods in the front. 2 new 6X9 Kenwoods (400W, 4 ohm) in the back. 400W, 4 channel, 4 ohm stable amp (not used yet). Amp wiring kit and all the electrical supplies, solder, heat shrink, strippers etc. 12” fosgate 500W 2 ohm sub (not used yet).

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